Monday, April 26

Day 13 Camp I to ABC - Slurp

Tempted to go up, but nothing with me for Camp II, therefore down I go. Also legs have definitely timed-out. Could also stay at 6,350m and soak up the altitude, but as I'm feeling so good better to get back down to ABC to rest, build and collect last load (from there). It was a key point for me to get here – is that hill too much for me? So very chuffed as now just have to repeat it twice more – that's the simplified version!

So first down – not the greatest idea. Follow wind blown boot/crampon scaring's. A little tentative, but no choice that I'm now up here. Feel that the steepness of the slope will allow me to fall forward enough to allow me to get my ice axe into the other side. Then the exit from the crevasses can be planned a little more leisurely. I move down in the ready position. What are the odds? I'm in the game already. I have a small chance to be ok...

SLURP, I'm in. Just up to my waste. Everything stops. Is there more? Will the bit holding me up collapse? It feels sticky.. I'm surprisingly calm and relaxed. My ice axe is pegged into the ice – a good sign, as at least that came naturally. I think of Claire, Keep Calm & Carry On. Has become a sort of mantra for me on this trip. No wonder it was so successful in the war. Well as easily as I went in, I got out. I had only pushed through half the width, it was quite stable and compact around me. Legs were dangling, how does that work – empty pack providing support. I just pulled myself out – again as Claire's meercat says “Simple” - will also adopt that expression for the trip – keep it simple, uncomplicated, basic, as nature intended. Its very easy to overcomplicate everything...
So now its Crevasses 1 – Hoseman 0. Not ever sure how I can change those statistics to go in my favour – start filling up the crevasses...? Perhaps 1 hour counting my Lama beads.

But I'm only halfway down, it does though get better lower down. Again no choice (reminder due to my objectives!) Are the odds better now?

... There's my red Penitentes Camp tent. Not sure if my legs are tired from the “slurp” or from yesterdays carry, but I'm glad to be down!

Cross Penitentes, rest for a short while at Depot camp (warm, no wind) and then back down to ABC. Meet a very nice Basque guy on the trail – new Jamie and Inaki. Another lady Basque friend of his is trying to become the first female to complete all 14 8,000m peaks. She will be on her way here soon. So there will definitely be someone going for the true summit this season. Everyone else intentions remain unclear or guarded at this stage.

Some of you will know that 13 is one of my lucky numbers – in-fact any combination of 1 or 3 is good for me. Today is day 13!

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