Back to Kathmandu again - Sights, sounds and smells and very disappointing news!

Luckily we all got out, albeit on different flights this morning from
Lukla. My flight quite bumpy due to fat cumulonimbus clouds along the
way. Shower, 5h1t shave and shampoo - fresh clothes! Always nice to get back
after a trip, especially if been roughing it up a bit.

But...
Discussions with Navin, don't go very well - price for expedition has
had to triple due to me being solo. Tempted to pay but opportunity cost
just to ridiculously high! Its crazy though to come all this way, get
physically and mentally prepared and then be faced with this. Even if I
agree to pay, its still not certain how quick climbing permits will be
released - could end up waiting weeks - this was the main reason why
Andrew Lock decided to cancel. Yes the mountain will still be there, but
I'm not getting any younger. My first attempt was in 2006, so if I try
again in 2010 - that's 4 years!

So its odd feelings... Obviously will be great to see Claire (and I have
already missed her very much), but potentially a great time to be up a
mountain instead of fretting over the UK job market. Another month away
will give it more time to rebalance - something I believe it needs to do
anyway!

The drought over the winter months would have meant that the mountain
may have been "clean". Too much snow on the last attempts were
contributory reasons for not having summited. Yes it would have meant
that the crevasses would have been more exposed, but with careful
route-finding and placing adequate protection these risks could have
been reduced. The "valley" above camp II is often a slog and often
impassable if on ones own, but this year might have been perfect. Oh to
be at camp III looking up towards the summit! Rats rats and more
rats!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So not a happy bunny!

Even worse I now have to repack i.e.unpack....

Above and around Namche Bazaar

Trek Day 15 & 16 - Roaming above Thame, then back to Lukla

A little earlier than normal - 9:00am, as going to go all the way down
to Namche. Have requested "single" expedition quote for Navin of Explore
Himalaya. Hopefully no surprises there!
Follow the Bhote Koshi river down the valley. Potatoes planting has
begun in Mingmo, and planters will slowly work their way up the valley
as it gets warmer. Fantastic peaks to the East - see some great
waterfall ice. Possible trip for the future - Location Google Earth -
N27 51 41.2 E086 38 38.5
Just above Thame, a village has almost been isolated by extreme erosion
by the river. Take a short cut to this village by crossing the Bhote
Koshi river - cold but with boots no issues - half way up thighs. In end
short cut requires second crossing back and hence ends up being a "long"
cut. Great just to be out exploring on my own - hardly see anyone along
the way...
Catch main trail back just above Thame. Certainly a lovely but different
valley - glacier shaped rather than V shaped as by the Bhote Koshi river.
Sorry that "family" did not meet in Thame - think would have been a
restful experience, but with little side one day adventures if required.
Thame is at 3,820m, so certainly feeling the thicker air. Then back
across Bhote Koshi at official crossing point - bridge over deep gorge
with smooth eroded rocks. Left a prayer flag for Mum & Dad tied to the
bridge.
Next village is Thamo 3,493m, which also has a monastery. Got dehydrated
as kept looking for a nice (view) lodge to stop, but most closed. Not
sure why this route no very popular - does not have the T shirt draw
card of Kalar Patar perhaps - fine by me though.
A little further down recognised Major Hume who had walked up the trail
from Namche to meet me - drank all of his water! Great to see him - pity
we had not met up earlier for a pass or two...Arrive Namche and met up
with James for & Peter for dinner & beers...

Nothing much to report on next day as we all "mosied" back down to Lukla
- strange feeling will I be back? Stayed with Dawa again - prime Lotse 3
bedroomed suite

Trek Day 14 - All the way down to Maralung

Magic morning, clear, no wind. Slow pack up, discuss and continue
renegotiating finances with Nima Tenji - agreement!
Thereafter in my usual style, decide to "beetle" down the valley. As
this (Nangpa La) objective is "over" need to start focussing on next -
Shisha...
Have felt extremely good so far - no issues, therefore a great platform
for climbing. Just hope the rest can be sorted out.
Walk - 10:00 to 13:45, this after picking up bag left at Arya. Met Pemba
II's wife at Arya lodge.
On arrival at Maralung agree that Nima Tenji can carry on down to home
below Lukla- Maybe will see him later on Shisha.

Although is great to be in the Nangpa La valley for acclimatising not
sure I will be back. It would be significantly more pleasant to achieve
"something". But as this trek is really about getting ready to climb,
think I have achieved a great platform - fitness, acclimatised and
"mountain legs".

What I hoped to see...

Photo Credit: FlipityJipity

Nangpa La

Trek Day 13 - Rats, Nangpa La 2 - Hoseman 0

Sun rises us...
Breakfast and map reading skills lesson for Nima T
So much one can teach these guys about the outdoors - this then they can
impart to their clients in the future and make everyone's trip that much
more rewarding
Bear West up a different valley towards Lunak (2007 camp site). This
valley flows east west so can access the Inmarsat satellites. Call Mum &
Dad - back home all fine.
Couple of climbers based at Lunak - attempting highest unclimbed peak
left in Nepal, just under 7,000m - Its remote, challenging and not very
accessible, hence its status - name & exact location to follow... Guys
are from Washington state where I learnt many good climbing skills from
Willie Pritty.
We forge on and bear North up the alongside the Nangpa glacier valley,
But the trail just disappears. Nangpa La seems tantalisingly close. The
main problems come from the active Nangpa glacier. This is eroding the
valley walls where the "trail" goes. On the steep sections there is
constant rock fall. From where the trail is to the top of the glacier
below is a good 125m, A daunting sight when you are right on its edge.
Nima T an I try scrambling higher up the valley slope - but this proves
fruitless due the the effort/time/risk that it takes with no reward.
It's one large quarry with a jumble of huge, often unstable boulders.
Another option would be to drop down onto the glacier, but we agree that
this will take longer than the supplies we are carrying. The risk of an
accident would also be high due to the icy rocky undulating moving
glacier surface.
So it becomes 2-0 to the Nangpa La! More rats...
Our turn around point is approximately N28 01 40.0 E086 35 14.3 at 5,200m
I take my hat of to the Tibetans and their Yaks! Hopefully they may
resume their journey so that the trail can be re-established.

Trek Day 12 - Action, bag found, Nangpa La here we come - Camp I

Up with the sun again - no need to rush things
Nima Tenji arrives after having checked that the folks got safely on the
plane to KTM. Note, this after two full days of walking!
He had gone via Arya and found my kitbag - great news as we can go
onward and upwards for some unfinished business on the Nangpa La!
Nima Tenji had found one of the daughters who happened to pop into their
"lower" abode and made contact. She sleeps higher up where the Yaks are
grazing. Pack up and share gear, me mainly carrying CTU and off on the
hardly used trail up to the Nangpa La. It used to be one of the main
trails between Tibet and Nepal, with the Tibetans bringing supplies to
sell at the weekly market at Namche Bazaar.Unfortunately this seems to
have stopped!
Back in September 2007 I tried (in vain) with Major Hume to get to the
top of the pass. With no lodges on the way one needs to camp and carry
all required supplies.
Its great to be "alone" on the trail just with these incredible vistas.
On either side of the valley that we are ascending are lines of 6 to 7
thousand meter peaks. We do our first foray across a relatively small
glacier moraine with no difficulty. The trail is "clear" (marked with
Yak dung) which is good news if remains that way.
Camp I was pitched at next to stream at N27 58 44.1 E086 36 51.3 at
4,812m a height which I'm now completely comfortable which is great.
Listen to Half Dome 1985 Lighting fiasco audible book on iPod - man
alive, then rough night as hips not used to hard cold ground due to
Thermarest going flat. The joys of camping...

Trek Day 11 - Lungde the hidden village

This illusive (on way down from Renjo Pass) village is actually only 50
minutes back but up the trail. It's slightly raised from the main route
hence my missing it. Anyway glad now that I have stayed in Maralung as
have met and shared some time with a lovely Sherpa family - Ang Phurba
Sherpa (father), Lhakpa Futi Sherpa (mother), Ang Chhutin Sherpa
(daughter 1), Pasang Dikee Sherpa (daughter 2) and last but not least
Sanche Khadka Sherpa (son)
Leave my pack at middle lodge and take CTU up the hill (300m vertical)
to get some comms - aka Mark Bauer
Must be a real sight sitting in the middle of know where with all this
gear, chatting away. At least I could snuggle behind the solar panel to
keep out of the cool wind. Long hat to Mrs H which was great - rats!
Zens hitting the hot spots of London as well!
Back down to first lodge - still no sign of my kitbag with all my
camping gear - came the alternative way so that I did not have to lug it
over the Renjo pass. Think its locked in someone's lodge who is not here
today - sure it will turn up, this is Nepal!

Trek Day 10 - Marulung

Promise photo's are coming soon! Have had amazing blue skies so some
lovely scenes...
Hope you all had a good Easter - missed the radar here
As wrote in my diary decided to stay (in Maralung) today, to relax,
think, contemplate...
First day since I left London that I don't have to worry about anyone else.
Techie Hose has his iPhone playing his "movies" play list and office now
set-up with the Yaks in the back yard - doing my bit for global warming
by utilising the solar panel to charge ll my equipment. Although is an
extra 7kg (on top of all the other required gear) I'm now comfortable
using it all. I'll do a gear review later on. James,any rules require
checking, I still have my remote access - ha ha
Interesting watching the family "day" - amazing how different from our -
and interestingly no real urge to change..It's probably not that easy as
all driven by volume of tourists/trekkers but do feel that with the time
they do have, could utilise better and probably bring in more
revenue...If anyone is interested, I do have some ideas of by us giving
some time, some big improvements could be made to the Nepali's standard
of living...maybe even tax deductible - so if interested send me an email
Have just shared by spaghetti lunch with the family cow - she seems to
especially like the egg bits!

Trek Day 09 - Gokyo to Maralung via Renjo La "pass" (5,340m)

An early start, cheers to Sonal and thankfully not suffering from any of
the rum enjoyed the night before! Weather poor though which was going to
make the journey much harder. Low cloud and falling snow, luckily a
group of Nepali teachers marking the trail.But steep sections were
treacherous and I took two tumbles down the hill- luckily no harm done
to my arm but scary moments. Crampons would have been very useful! I
wonder how Major Hume is doing, especially over the Cho La.
After 3 hours reached the top and thankfully all in one piece. Glimpses
of Gokyo and the lakes on the other side through the mist. The other
side consists of the most amazing steps of stonework down into the
valley below. Great if not covered in snow but a little scary when
covered and form this big slide all the way down. So even more calories
burnt up concentrating on the way down.
My intentions were to stay at Pemba Sherpa's lodge in Arya and to make
this my base for the foray up the Nangpa La (pass on the border with
Tibet) but as I approached it it seemed awfully quiet! I whistled down
but got no reaction and then realised that I would have to go even
further down to the village below - many grumbles! This was not good
news as it meant the "base" would be further down the valley meaning
another night camping out - this was not in my food/supplies budget.
In the end I ended walking down to Maralung and luckily found a young
Sherpa, Sanche, who took me to his mothers lodge - it was still snowing
so I was cold and still grumpy about Arya
Slept from 3:00pm to 6:00pm and then dinner of vegetable soup and meat
momo's until 8:00pm - then slept another 11 hours

Trekkers day - by Sonal Amin

Crimson dawn wakens sleepy trekker

Yak bells lull slowly, broken by sharp cries of cockerel call

As he unfurls himself gathering and packing for another day

He walks, he walks, he walks

Head bent low, step by step he walks

Occasionally he pauses and breathes in the vista

High and low the mountains unfold, deep valleys and gorges, rivers and 

dotted farms

Onwards he follows the Yak trail, pass the Sherpas, Porters laden with 

their business

They gather by the stove, tales and stories shared

Each evening they merge, adventures told in the heat of the stove.

Hearty tales and hearty food, all retire cocooned in their bags for 

another day...

Celebrating Sonal's birthday at Gokyo

Trek Day 07 & 08 - Gokyo & Gokyo Ri "Peak" 5,360m

Google Earth Gokyo: N27 57 15.0 E086 41 39.7
Casual start to climb the 5,360m "hill" above the "resort" of Gokyo.
Clear skies, freshly snow covered hills from previous night.Couple of
groups ahead of us so trail easy to spot.Quite a struggle going up even
though pack only has necessities in it - reminds me of the forthcoming
slog up from Depot Camp to Camp I on Shishapangma! Oh boy and its all
voluntary...Funny how thoughts of just giving up creep in, but one has
to fight them and persevere through the negativeness.
Luckily there are distractions - the magnificent view!
Due East I spot on the horizon some plumes of white cloud which seem
familiar. Each step upwards reveals a little more and eventually the
tiny triangle of Mount Everest summit appears. It's certainly blowing a
gale up there, what with its top protruding into the jet stream -
certainly a spectacular sight! I wonder if I will ever stand on the top,
or will Shisha's summit satisfy my quest for standing above 8,000m?

At Gokyo Ri's summit we have clear visuals of 3 of the worlds eight
thousanders - Cho Oyu, Everest and Makalu, plus a "what" of other high
peaks. Anyone know the collective noun for mountain peaks/summits?
Sonal did an amazing job and soon was also at the top - I know it was a
hard slog but the views were well worth it.

I took it very easy the next day as was feeling a little lethargic -
probably due the high altitude. Sonal took a walk around the 3rd lake -
Dudh Pokhari.
In the evening, as Sonal was departing the next day, I organised some
Sherpa singing and dancing for her immanent birthday on the 11th. It was
a great success and enjoyed by all the lodge guests!

Trek Day 06 - Luza (4,360m) to Gokyo (4,790m)

Yep getting some height now - almost as high as Mont Blanc!
Google Earth for Luza: N27 53 36.5 E086 43 09.5
Short walk from Luza to Machermo but its in a valley so have to drop
down and then climb back up again. Stop at Phang (4,480m) for nice hot
drink - Mother with her little son relaxing on mattress in the sun...
Then about 6km up to Gokyo. Fantastic views and weather. Caught up with
Sonal at 2nd "Gokyo" Lake. Had just been up a staircase to heaven" -
very exposed as one climbs just next to the glacier snout - more rock
quarry like than ice.
Lakes lovely blue colour but as early spring still
covered in ice - move around and create little "floes".
Not clear whether Tibet open for any climbing at this stage! Also seems
to be a requirement that members on same climbing permit need to enter
Tibet together - not going to be possible as I will still be Khumbu
region trekking - hopefully not a show stopper.

Trek Day 05 - Mong La (3,940m) to Luza (4,350m)

Another 9:20am start. This after the most spectacular amphitheatre of
mountain views. Dropped down to the Dudh Koshi river at the junction to
Phortse.Have now rigged my solar panel to the back of my backpack so now
have a electric 4x4 powering me up the hills. So far the equipment is
all working well. I just need to refine the use thereof. i.e. how to get
the most out of the power I generate from the sun - split this between
the notebook and Bgan satellite receiver/transmitter.
Now walking through the last of the Rhododendron forests that we will
see for a while. The next section around Tenga is really beautiful, with
waterfalls and springs coming down the mountain side. As we are here
early spring these waterfalls were all frozen, and if I had had my ice
tools with me would have presented some exiting challenges. The route
meandered up and down through Dole (4,110m) where we had lunch and
Lhabarma ( (4,330m). Luckily the last section follows the contours and
soon we were at Luza. Again a sign of the times (altitude), a helicopter
approached and took a sick trekker back down the hill.
Copy paste into Google Earth
Luza - N27 53 36.5 E086 43 09.5

Trek Day 04 - Namche Bazaar (3,440m) to Mong La (3,940m)

Depart 9:20 and decide via majority vote to take the long route to Mong
La via Khumjung (3,780m). Instead of a gentle contour path, this route
consists of a steep track upwards at the back of Namche.
Today was
market day, but the Tibetan influences normally found at the market are
missing due to the lack of traffic through the Nangpa La. Major Hume was
meant to be at Namche today but unfortunately due to flight delays into
Lukla he is not with us. By the way La means pass.
Climb up past the hardly used Khumjung runway, through yak pastures and
then down steep stone steps into the village. Its always the case, down
to go up, but that's life in the Himalayas.
New altitude records of 3,830m for most of the group!
Dad found the ascent hard going, but this is to be expected when
entering the high Himalayas. Aclimitising is not always easy and one
never knows where ones own limit is. The past also does not predict the
future and even having been high is no guarantee that one will be able
to go back. In Sir Hillary's later life he was not able to return to the
places he so influenced. As a note its one of my objectives of the climb
to Shisha's summit - to see how I can can go. So far I've only been to
6,500m (camp I on Shisha and camp II on Koskulak).
With hindsight now it seems Raymond's limit was around 3,400m. This
though for an 84 year young man is incredible. When we entered the
National Park, they record all entrants including their ages and other
than Wendy, he was by far the oldest by 25 years.
Wendy was the surprise, but thinking a little about it why should she be
such a surprise. She stoically strode step by step upwards, with never
any sound of compliant. Nima was a star and was always by her side, they
were often hand in hand. I must mentioned that Mumsies vision in her one
eye is very poor, in fact she does not have much depth of field at all.
This makes walking up and down rough terrain very difficult. I can't
even walk upright on one of the largest trails in the Peak District!

I have the most utmost respect for my folks in attempting this challenge
so late in their lives. They can be very proud of what they have
achieved and I can guarantee they will never forget the sights they saw
and experiences they partook in. I am also very pleased that they have
now shared with me this wonderful country Nepal. Well done guys, 10 uur
and 12 uur will never quite be the same again!

So where is this all going. Well Wendy and Ray decided to go back down
to Namche Bazaar. Sonal and I continued to Mong La. Yes as the name
implies this is on the top of a pass, so its a long haul upwards. Major
Hume and I stayed here back in 2007, and I remember the steep ascent on
the other side. In fact I had to bribe the Major with a hot Thermos of
tea to get him up to the top, which he did admirably. Its a beautiful
spot and when I get the photos uploaded you will be able to join in the
experience.

Google Earth:
Mong La - N27 50 23.5 E086 44 09.3

Along the trail

Trek Day 02 - Benkar (2,630m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)

This was likely to be a challenging day as we all live below 150m. Climbing 800m when one is already at 2,600m was going to be hard work. How would Wendy and Ray do? Sonal had been gyming and hiking around Stanmore but would Mum & Dad's hikes in Sellendam be sufficient to get them up the Namche hill? Luckily there are a couple distractions before the long climb at the end i.e. the entrance to Sagarmartha National Park and five exiting suspension bridges. Well four exhausting hours after departure Sonal and Ray arrived at Namche Bazaar - a superb effort!

I was following Mum who was hand in hand with Nima. The reason for following was that I was bringing CTU up the valley with me, and was suffering under the load due to the lack of training caused by my broken arm back in January. Wendy was doing a sterling job, one step at a time and an hour later arrived to meet Sonal and Ray in Namche. The killer news was that our lodge was at the top of Namche another 150m higher....

Trekking scenes - lower valley