Day 18 - 11 May - Shishapangma Advanced Base Camp (ABC) - Recce of crevasses towards Camp II

Up early as possibly an attempt on establishing camp II!

Lovey morning at Camp I

Have asked Sherpa’s if I can join their rope as they are definitely going to establish Camp I for Luke’s group.

Gyalzen

Kaji & Ngima

Route up to Camp II

We set off roped together, with Gyalzen probing the snow ahead with his ice axe. We also spot an Austrian group coming down from Camp II. They have unfortunately run out of time (after many weeks) and hence are packing up.

Initially the route is just a gentle gradient, but perfect conditions for ice to bend while it is moving down, and hence crack causing crevasses. We find 9!

We then hit a steep section. At this point I know that I do not have the legs to carry on, so although I have camp II load with me, I say to the guys that I’m going to turn around.

I then return to Camp I un-roped – running (ha ha) the gauntlet over the 9 known crevasses.

Just another crevasse

So the situation is not ideal, that is the number of crevasses. My feeling is though, as with the crest to Camp I, that the crevasses are pretty filled in (by snow/ice been blown over days/weeks) and hence are not large cavernous pits of nothing. If one pops through, I believe there is a good change of self-extracting…

Mmmmmm

Quick stop to drop Camp II load at my camp I, then beetle off down the hill…

At the crest, pop one crevasses, but forward momentum ensures I fall face first down in the snow on the other side…

Aah that lovely crevasse adrenalin rush – again in the morning!

Reach Penitentes with no further incident.. Decide to film the route, but include a new version. Nice to have the time to explore it a bit. Video will be posted later – including a slip – hee hee

Short rest at Depot Camp, then back down (the changing/melting/mudslide route as conditions warm) to ABC.

My Depot "home"

On arrival, usual gallons of sweet milky tea…

Sherpa’s arrive back very later afternoon after a very long day up to and establishing Camp II for Luke’s group – reported thigh high snow…