Monday, May 14

Update/Correction - no true summits still on Shishapangma

On Friday 11 May I relayed that had reported that Juanito Oiarzabal, Carlos Pauner, Juanjo Garra and Argentine Ariel Petinetti, had summited the true summit of Shishapangma.

It turns out that they turned around just short of the true summit - this reported on Explorers web (see

So Shisha again, keeps her illusive true summit to herself!

Below is a Google translation of what Juanito Oiarzabal said on

A little sad.
In total have been more grueling five days.
Always the same. We will not use Murphy's Law, but that we are inveterate optimists. Well, better to be so, there's no regrets. It is better, always see the glass half full.
We expected the time would be better, but has not been bad. If you get to be bad, certainly not lower.

We left on Tuesday, 8, climbed slowly. A day to reach Camp I to Camp II other ... reserving strength for the final attack. We arrived at Camp III, a little tired, but it is normal if we are at almost 7,500 meters, which is where we set up camp.
And it was on Friday 11. We had slept little, but that we had counted, and prepared to leave at four o'clock, but we had a bit of fog, and without the help of the moon, and without knowing the way, it was crazy to leave. So we had to wait for daylight. Of course we were the only ones who were attacking the summit by this route, although initially there were two Finns who came up with us. We had to open the track between ourselves.
It was very hard. The climb is beautiful, is a tour of the best that can be done in the Himalayas, we were surprised by its beauty, is not too difficult or dangerous, but is long, heavy, we sunk 30 to 40 inches and had to earn every step and, of course, fatigue accumulates, and time passes, while the forces are spent, and every time you slow down.
I for one was not convinced to go ahead when we saw that we would do at night. We had access to an edge which also joins the British route Southwest (which we did in 1998). We reached the edge and I warned, by the memories he had, that we still had enough. But as all we wanted to make top and we were not in danger, follow up.
But at night, tiredness, and limited light of our front, he surely we had a miscalculation. At one point believed to be on top and gave it for good. (The summit of Shisha is not exactly the kind that have some characteristic that identify it as such).
Even in the fall, at some stage that ice sheets have not noticed the mark, we doubt and we struggled to find the way, but beyond these small sections and with a tremendous tiredness by the time we had non-stop, finally the four o'clock in the morning we arrived at Camp III.

In total there were about 22 hours straight ...
We rested some and at dawn returned our eyes to the summit and the route we had followed ... We soon realize nothing in that, possibly, where we were not the highest point, although we had been very close. We looked and remiramos and there was no doubt.

The first record we did was at night, to reassure us and tell you that we had already summit and descended, but when we realized our error, we announced to everyone, hoping to make "official" statements on arrival to BC, and relaxed and clearer ideas on the reasons for our mistake.

And this is the sad reality. These things happen quite often in the mountains. The whole illusion so long as the support of good people who trust you, who helps to get your aim and effort, sacrifice and hardship many have not had the desired result.

We have the consolation, which is something, that we have given everything to exhaustion, we are satisfied and you can be sure that we have all that was on our side, but in the "fight" against the mountains can not always bind all the circumstances necessary for you to win. Nevertheless we are back safe and sound and will continue striving to achieve our dreams ... and that we can celebrate, because "soldier who becomes goes for another battle"
Not how I could thank you for your unconditional support, THANK YOU and until we meet "face to face" a big hug,

Juanito Oiarzabal. Shisha Pangma Base Camp, May 14, 2012

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