Summary of Week - Monday 17th - Sunday 23rd

Hi Guys and thanks to Mike B, Raymond E & Major Hume for the sms's
Thanks Stu for the results - go SA

Day 11 - Mon 17th = Depot Camp
Relaxed start to carry first load from Depot camp (through the penitentes up
to and as close to Camp I as possible. Was on the hill with Jamie's
Sherpa's, great experience to be "working" with such amazing people. The
route through the penitentes is not ideal this year with some unnecessary
ups and downs and hair razing steep ascents and descents over the massive
inverted ice teeth. All quite an experience with a heavy pack, boots and
crampons!
I eventually called it a day at 6150m - thanks to Namgyals verbal support,
and buried by load in the snow. 2 hours 52 mins up and down

Day 12 - Tue 18th = Depot Camp
Rest day at Depot camp
Jamie's group arrives

Day 13 - Wed 19th = Camp I (6364m)
Up earlyish to pack load - High suit, Puffa, High Sleeping bag, Jetboil
stove, 1 gas, High food x 4, Camp 2 Tent poles (Note no Camp 2 tent - too
heavy/tired), Ice axe, Harness & Gear
Left 8:18am, only an hour through penitentes this time
Clive & Tristan soon join me on trail and pass. Swap some gear with previous
day's cache. Eventually see Jamie's camp 1 over the rise at approx 6300m.
Don't have energy to get to 6500 so establish an earlier camp 1 - 6364m.
Rest of Jamie's group pass my "T house" - Offer some hot water as conditions
not quite ideal - small white out.
Have very cold night as only have high suit - fine for body but feet cold so
had to boil water to heat bottles to keep feet warm. - Up all night.
Nice way to spend our 9th anniversary! - Eventually sunrise...

Day 14 - Thu 20 = Camp I (6460m)
Coffee then down to cache to get load.
Push new position for Camp I above Jamie's group - 6460m
Google Earth position - N28 22 45.0 E 85 45 00.0
Now have all my gear with me - much nicer evening - warm as toast
Very happy that Camp I now well established, plus also some high gear! Great
views down the valley
So to-date have had no altitude problems (headaches, ams, etc)

Day 15 - Fri 21 = ABC
Secure tent as best as possible. Jamie's group going up to Camp II. I need
to restock (internally) with food and liquids - one issue I do have is not
wanting to eat or drink at altitude, so am going back to ABC. I also need to
get next load from Depot Camp. Amazing how quick it takes me to get back
(Albeit with absolutely nothing left in me) - 2 hours 40 mins down compared
to approx 9 hours.
Meet Andrew Lock at ABC who has done 12 of the 14 eight thousanders! -
Google him....

Day 16 - Sat 22 = ABC
It's the weekend. Plan rest eat. As I have established Camp I, feel it is
certainly possible to establish Camp II. Jamie's is at 6800. There is an
initial steep climb and then one enters a cwm which leads to Camp III. How
high I establish it will depend on how exhausted I am when I reach the
crest.

Day 17 - Sun 23 = ABC
A little nervous as will be leaving ABC tomorrow. Different high cloud over
Shisha today. Asked Andrew what it might mean - he says "cloudy"!
Most of Jamie's group are coming down from spending two nights at Camp II
so ABC will be busy again - time to move on.

Plan for next week - note anything could change!
Mon - Depot or Camp I
Tue - Camp I
Wed - First load to Camp II - probably just my High Tent
Thur - Move to Camp II
Fri - Camp II
Note: Google the British Army attempt on Shisha - they are probably
attempting the summit this week

Note for those of you supporting the Rainbow Trust (see link), I have now
climbed from 5000 to 6460 - 1460m which at 1p per meter = 14.60gbp - almost
half way!
Thanks again for supporting them