Monday, May 10

Day 25 – Depot Camp to Camp I

Regarding day 24, took 2:15 to get to depot – an average time but not really as expected. Coffee & snickers for dinner – not good sign...

Small amount of snow during the night, but perfectly clear AM. Cross Penitentes – tracks already there which is good.
Quick stop at Penitentes Camp. Two skiers and three climbers ahead. They make it possible for me as lay a really good trail upwards. Move at good pace up the now familiar route. Thick snow off trail and crevasses have been covered over yet again – holding thumbs, as although climbers above me on route, could still easily punch through...

Three quarters of way up notice that one skiers seems to be missing. Have just got on extra layer and thick gloves as wind gusts been stronger and colder. The see partner of skier skiing back down to a big slot in the snow. Skier had been skiing directly over a crevasses and then had fell through. Said later that he had gone down 4m and that there was still plenty of blackness below him. Partner soon arranged system to haul him out. Not the nicest feeling to hear how big the crevasse was. Slight delay at crevasse otherwise arrive at Camp I at approximately 2:15pm (not logged). Rest but again not enough hydration or food...

After much thought agree that I am on the limit with no buffer of reserves. I'm getting more concerned that if weather, crevasse fall, health etc in any way go against me it would be a bad situation to be in. Risk reward balance is wrong, and funnily for the first time in my life feel afraid of dying. I have to-date always said that if I die today I would be “happy” as have led life to the fullest – but now I don't feel that – I need to restore the balance between Claire & myself – things to do together...

Had good sat phone call to Claire. She has been so wonderfully supportive and complimentary of my achievements up to Camp II. I feel very emotional about having not lived up to the expectations of myself and of others, but I now know how far I can go – I have reached that point.

Relief in the decision to go down – amazing how much it had been hanging over my head – just got to “do” the crevasse slopes one more time...

1 comment:

  1. Anonymous2:01 am

    Reading this really late since I was caught up in dealing with mundane urban living matters like moving house, finding a house first, dealing with packers and the like. Great decision, and in any event you have a wonderful experience to look back on. Good to have you back. Cheers and best wishes, Armin and Ram

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