Friday, October 5

Day 26 - 2nd October - Summit Plan

So considering that I have now been up the hill a few times, have
established Camp I at 6,400m and we have a small favourable weather window,
I have decided to go back up for a summit push. The weather in the region
has certainly not been ideal and the chances of success are small. But
because of all the time and effort invested it's worth an attempt.
For my unsupported attempt I do need to have a clear (calm) weather window.
Secondly I need to have a trail before me. Its one thing carrying all ones
own gear when there is a firm trail, but this become impossible in knee deep
conditions. Shisha has plenty of this around and only a very thin trail in
some places (where previous climbers have been).
So the plan is as follows:

Date Jamie's team Mark
Tuesday 2nd Camp 1.6 ABC
Wednesday 3rd Camp 2.5/3 Camp 1
Thursday 4th Summit Camp 2
Friday 5th Retreat Camp 2.5/3
Saturday 6th Summit

Camp 1.6 is early on in a valley - reason is that the first time there, one
has climbed +/- 400m up a steep slope and going further up the valley seems
an arduous task.

Camp 2.5 is just below an "interesting" slope up to camp 3. It can get
loaded with snow and may avalanche - Three clients and 2 Sherpa's set this
camp up as a pre summit camp, implying a long hard summit push. Camp 3 is on
a col (and visible from ABC) and in current conditions will be unbearably

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