Thursday, September 14

Well settled at ABC

Tonight will be our second at ABC (5630m) and it is also a great spot.
It's a little cooler at nights and we lose the sun at 4:30pm - time for
the thick expedition weight down jacket. Google earth location N 28 26
28.2; E85 46 33.2. ABC is on the edge of the glacier moraine, and there
are some glacier lakes at the end of the glacier snout. We still have
good views of Shisha, but the route is a little hidden by a peak in the

I'm still not sleeping very much at night - very vivid dreams that wake
me up. But health has improved, even the coughing seems to almost have
stopped. Again tempted to sleep in the afternoons, but think this will
just make the evenings worse - probably will improve when I increase my
energy expenditure while carrying loads.

I spent most of today splitting up my food for the camps. Plenty of zip
lock bags used to organise. I have also added about 2kg of complex
carbohydrate powder to most of my packets. Its tasteless so can be added
to anything - I went for everything!.

The plan for me now has two components:
1. Acclimatise
2. Stock route for summit attempt

So initially I will be carrying loads up to camps so that I can spend
nights at higher altitudes. This will probably only be up to camp 2 at
7065m. I will also follow an approach to carry first to the new camp
site and then go back down. The day thereafter I will climb back up and
sleep over. There are also some intermediate camps - Depot camp after
ABC and camp 1.5 after camp 1. These will be used depending on weather
and probably how tired I am. A lot of decisions will be based on
information available at the time and therefore could be adjusted.

Weather has been fine, with some local winds high in Shisha. Jamie is
still waiting for the long term forecast - i.e. what is the monsoon
doing - is it over? or are we in for a big surprise and a big snow storm?

Tomorrow we hope to have our Puja - this will be performed by Dawa and
it is effectively were we get permission from the mountain gods to climb
- the theory is that one does not climb on any part of the mountain
until this has been performed - which we have not...

I must say I am a little envious of Jamie's team with their Sherpa
support - they just have to carry their personal gear, and by the time
they arrive at camp it will be set up and a cup of tea available. I know
Claire has had to explain this many times to people - why is he doing it
this way. But I will still rather have achieved the height I do achieve
on my own - It will then really give me a true sense of achievement.

Theres a chance I will add some photo's tomorrow - will discuss with

To end I will say that my platform is building slowly and surely, and
I'm confident I will have some good days on the mountain.

Face full of flour from the puja - feeling much better now and looking forward to the adventures ahead

Shot of Puja with Shisha in the backround

At ABC. Packing again, this time food and equipment supplies for the mountian

View of ABC location, penitentes and early stages of route

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