Wednesday, September 20

3 Carries & 1 day rest

So 17th and 18th were also Yak days. Very chuffed that my gear and food
is now all at Depot camp (5860m). The route does have stages so one can
"count down" - something for me that is very much part of my approach.
There was one nasty mudslide which would slowly build up and then
release - so any attempt to bridge it is washed away. Mack & Kevin
helped find a route and we were soon safely over (that time). 17th carry
was slowest -is approx 5.5km each way and had taken me 2h45 up. But
17th was at least an extra hour...
Maybe I knew that I was not returning on same day, but rather sleeping
at Depot camp. Found a perfect flat sandy tent site - masses of time
saved not having to chop out a spot out of the rocky icy moraine. Think
it had been made the night before by Clive & Sirke - thanks guys!

Did snow most of the night which was not ideal as I don't want to be
first out on the "new" route. Did sleep well though and Jetboil worked
well - Gromit had forgotten the spoon and lighter (again) so thank
goodness the Jetboil has its owner igniter.

Due to snow decided to return to ABC on the 18th and take one day rest -
hopefully while the sun is clear on the route - so it compacts - and
hopefully that other climbers re-establish the trail.

Snowed again on 18th - not ideal...

Iñaki (see is going up today with his client Bob, and Jamie's team are
coming down after a couple of nights at camp 1.

Plan 20th, 21st, 23rd
My plan is to go up to Camp 1 tomorrow (from ABC) - so will be a long
day. Have worked out what I need to have a proper camp 1 established so
it will be a long day. Hold thumbs for clear conditions and a good
route. After arriving at Depot, I will pack and then go through
penitentes (approx 1 hour). Then a slog directly up to camp 1 (6400m).
That is likely to equal my altitude record. I must say from what I
remember from the Western China trip (Koskulak) this seems to be much
more difficult. But I know I can do the altitude - its all just a matter
of time to see how I am feeling right now...

Enjoy your warm double beds and Mrs H is now enjoying pausing the new Sky HD

This is Mac on the route to Camp 1 - a great guy who helped make my load lighter with a double expresso at Depot camp

View of climbers on glacier after Penitentes - photo by Jamie

Which way? First run through Penitentes took an hour, return trip 20 minutes - great when you get used to the environment and hence more efficient

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