Quote sent in by Mumsie (Wendy)

Mark, you have come through so many different trials and you have beaten them all and we are therefore confident that this one, you will overcome.

I quote “To climb on the highest hills is to realise a kinship with Nature. Penalties and pains may attend such a realization, but these make the eventual consummation all the more vital and joyful, for it is the immutable law of the universe that only through striving and suffering shall man learn to realise himself, to gain in awareness, to enlarge his moral stature, to discover truth and joy.

With gasping lungs and failing breath a man may one day tread the highest point of the earth, but he will tread it in no spirit of a conqueror, but humbly and thankfully, knowing that a power has been given to him capable of animating him not only to the full extent of his natural strength, but far beyond that strength.” (Frank S. Smythe)

Hume thoughts from abroad - Part 1of 2 – by Major Peter Donald Hume

“This being my tenth year of exile on the mountain, I take up my pen to write my journal”

Mark has allowed me to blog space to add a different view point. The only banned topics are those which show Capt. H in anything other than the role of superhuman mountaineer extraordinaire – luckily he has not strayed very much from this role so far.....

Living at ABC means lie revolved around
1.Sleeping – Despite being at 5,600m, this has been very good overall with at least 10 hours spent in the tent each night
2.Hygiene fairly poor,but bearable. The English amongst us managing to shave every few days and the toilet tent is light years ahead of the wooden long drops of Kili...even up here at ABC we have a pinned up copy of the Standard exhort at low, found in all lodges in this part of the world: Please do not put paper in the hole! - as I write this Shera, head cook is building a shower tent. Yippee
3.Eating: something different to tempt the taste buds, every day. My current vegetarian status is often interpreted in the cook tent by simply removing any animal protein from my plate Tofu appeared for the early days but everyone shared in this and I think that supplies are now exhausted. I am not sure that warmed up tinned pineapple will form a major addition to dinner parties at Kenway road, but as Mark wisely says, next time they can simply leave our portions outside the mess tent for 5 mins and chilled perfection is guaranteed.
4.Physical exertion: my preferences for lazing around have been thwarted by Mark's insistence on training walks and the 2 long days from BC to ABC and from ABC to Depot. I remind myself that this is all character forming, good for my physical wellbeing and great as part of my weight reduction programme. If I slip back in resolve, I am told to pull myself together and forget the Earls Court sofa days.

Shishapangma itself has been a constant pleasure and surprise. Despite being above 5,000m we have seen antelope, hares, beautiful birds and some snow imprints which looked liked those of some member of the cat family. The elusive Red Panda remains hidden across the border in Nepal. However has anyone ever seen this critter?

The icy-blue wind-carved peaks, spires and valleys on the glacier all along the way to Depot camp were probably the most spectacular sight I have ever seen. The view of Shishapangma and the other mountain tops in this part of the Himalayas are truly beautiful (I would have said awesome, but this adjective seems now reserved for describing a well cooked Dal Bhat or a nicely brewed cup of tea). At night we have had clear skies and the minute crescent of the new moon and the myriad of stars that we urbanites never see.

My yak hat, it transpires is actually made of sheepskin. I realised this in Nyalam when several Tibetans made bleating and baaing noises at me At least I assume this was their meaning and not simply an expression of their sexual preferences or an invitation.

Its a lonely life up in the mountains and the Tibetan men and women are not easily distinguishable. All of them are completely wrapped up in many layers of ancient clothing, with similar gap-toothed grubby and sun-burned faces. Still my hat is, I believe much loved by all who see it. I explained to one of our fellow travellers that I wore my hat and shaved regularly because I like to be different from others around me. She replied that I didn't need a shave or a funny hat to achieve this – what can she have meant, I wonder?

Pity but I do not think I can write any more.
Om mahne padme hom
Peter (Major) Hume
-ends-
...................................

Day 7 – ABC – Rest

Another bad night – now not only “dreaming” but started to create mucus plugs. As I'm feeling so good it's not any form of odoema but rather another very frustrating and irritating infliction (wordage compliments of Major Hume) that keeps me awake (and half the camp due to my retching, spluttering and gagging). Again the joys of high altitude climbing! If I carry on at this rate I will sleep continuously for four days when I get back to a reasonable altitude...

So a rest day today (without sleeping – as that will make tonight even harder to “negotiate”) carrying out final planning for trip to Camp I. Plan is to go back to Depot camp tomorrow (with load for Camp I), sleep there and then cross penitentes and ascend and establish Camp I on Thursday 22nd. Spend one night at Camp I and return to ABC next day.

Other news is that Major Hume will be returning to BC on Thursday. I hope he has enjoyed the “outing”. I'm sure he now has a good insight to this high altitude malarkey and that he received good value for his “fare” for the trip. Interestingly on the trip to date, I still have not achieved the Major's personal altitude record (5,895m on Kilimanjaro – 4 times nog al!)

Scott and Nicole on way to establish Camp I - Scott assisted with diagnosis and reassurance re the mucus plug!

  












Tibetan Snowcock - regular ABC visitors

Raven on the lookout

Day 6 – ABC – Puja & Depot Camp

Windy but clear and sunny Puja carried out by Rimje (one of Kono's Sherpas). Great now that the mountain is “open”.

Rimje performing Puja

Prayer flags over Shisha summits

Hoseman in his element

With Major at the Puja

Puja group


Agenda for today is to establish Depot camp (at 5,800m & 5km from ABC) Set out with modest load at 10:00ish. Trail much dryer than both 2006/7 pre-monsoon seasons, which is good as no mud slides to contend with. I fractured my thumb previously in one of those slides. On the way up the penitentes are still as impressionable as before. Major comes up part of the trail to get closer look at them.

Lovely Penetentes

Trail next to Penetentes


Last section has changed quite a bit as one has to go quite a bit higher to avoid some icy glacier cutaway's. After about 2h45 reach final destination just next to the upper penitentes. No existing tent platforms exist so have to cut one out of sand/icy moraine. Scott & Nicole arrive to deposit first of their loads. Two other tents are visible and although route has been made through penitentes (by the Italians) no tracks are yet visible up to Camp I. I am too small a “team” to be first up, so will need to wait until other groups have at least established the trail and identified any crevasses. I might be trying to be independent but I'm not going to take unnecessary risks!

Depot tent - best of British

Flag marking Depot camp

So Depot Camp is now established (location ......) and ready for the rest of the supplies. I'm going to ask Sera if he is happy that either Ram & Kami assist me in carrying the final loads to Depot camp (they are effectively his kitchen staff). As I have mentioned previously I don't believe the mountain starts until one enters the penitentes, so happy to get assistance up to Depot. Walk back was pretty exhausting – probably due a little to altitude, but more likely due to lack of “fuel”. Must now start to consume energy drinks and eats during the day! Weather a little cold and snowy for last hour of return journey.

Day 5 – Advanced Base Camp (ABC) – day of rest!

Spectacular morning, up early after another rotten night. Did my Heart rate rest & VO2 max simulation tests and both good for a first day at a new altitude - 5,600m height level. Also feeling very good, especially as I had another rotten night. Quite surprised I had difficulty sleeping after such a big day, but it's those dam dreams. Had to wake up to stop them, so ended up playing mine sweeper on my iPhone until I was exhausted and sure I would sleep deeply (2:00am!) The dreams are just silly problem solving issues – mostly related to carrying loads. And they are not my loads but simple ones of anyone in a village or on the trail. It's probably related to the new altitude but might also be related to having too much sleep. I'm going to try to stay awake later, but that's a bit difficult as the dinning tent gets very cold and hence we all disappear to our tents and sleeping bags as soon as we have eaten. Yep we do have a dining tent at ABC – this is shared between the 4 groups. I think the Germans will be moving to their own tent today,leaving me with the Japanese lady – Kono and the two Americans - Scott & Nicole. Major will be with us for another 5 to 6 days. Above ABC I will be getting any food support. I'm hoping to get all my gear to a place called depot camp, 200m higher where the penitentes start. This is where I believe the mountain “starts” and from thereon I will receive no further assistance. If though there are fixed ropes (over crevasses) then I will clip into these.

A perfect day at ABC - talk about location, location, location

Peaceful yaks

A big fellow that had my barrels on the way up

Horses are also used for some smaller loads and to carry the Tibetan yak herders gear - they live a very rough life

So a rough plan is as follows:
Puja tomorrow – requesting permission from the Gods to climb
Then get all my gear to Depot Camp
21 April establish Camp I
...

Note that I will not be able to upload directly onto the Blog while on the mountain (already have enough to carry), but will be calling Raymond via Sat phone with updated for him to publish. Photos will be added when I return to ABC

Have just got BGAN to work from inside ABC tent – comms all good!

Confessions of a climber

Saturday night was not good. Came very close to pulling the plug. Amazing how easy that would have been. Bottom line was that for some reason I had no confidence at all in establishing any camps! Thank goodness though but that is all behind me. Had a really good positive day today (Sunday). I know I can establish Camp I, so its just two more that are required. Slowly slowly catchy monkey. I think too, that I have a way to handle the dreams and importantly I now understand the little impact they have on my objectives. One just has to work on them with the big picture (of life) in mind. Banish the negative thoughts and relish in the positive experiences – I'm very fortunate to be here and have this opportunity and so must give it my best shot. So thanks for reading and enjoy the ride...

Day 4 – Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp

Summary:
7h25 on trail
4088Kcals
5,688m max altitude
5,041m min altitude
Avg HR 130
ABC position N28 26 27.6 E85 46 33.0 for those following on Google Earth
17.5 km distance

So a very long and hard day including 600m height gain from 5,000m. Had forgotten the end part of the trail so its seemed to carry on forever. Major did a good job of “dragging” me along. Think it was a first for him, seeing me so stuffed. Had most of my electronic gear in my pack – don't trust the yaks with it, so a bit of a load. The weather turned in the end so a bit windy and cold for the last hour or two. Thought we were getting close at one stage, but then spotted the yaks miles away and up on a ridge – yes they did overtake us even though we started before them. Two loads of yaks, with first dumping gear in the wrong location, and second arriving quite late. This all led to camp being setup late and we all got a bit cold. Once tent up, slept until diner. Must take my hat off to the yaks for their amazing character – most are very peaceful and patient, especially with the big loads that they carry.

View back to BC from Tibetan plains

Major on Ice Lake

Loading yaks at BC

Stuffed Hoseman

Rainbow Trust says a big Thank you

Thanks to Jenny, Dave, Karin & Michael for their donations!

One of the badges I'm getting made for the Rainbow Trust to sell to raise funds
Remember all of those who donate will receive one like this!

Day 3 – Base Camp Rest Day

Very hot with some cloud on the horizon. Major & I both feeling good. Although I had another restless night my niggling headache has gone. Funny how just a small one can have such a big impact on ones wellbeing.

Gear all now packed and ready for move to ABC tomorrow. Its about a 17km walk with a limb of approximately 600m. So will be taking it easy along the way. Have paid for an extra 20kg's which equates to half a yak and $50.








Careful measurements being carried out

Last bits being squashed in

Final calculations

Major Hume at Shishapangma Base Camp

Gromit appears

Base Camp panorama

Day 3 – Base Camp Gear

Incase anyone is interested in what it takes from an infrastructure point of view to climb an Eight Thousander without support, herewith the contents of my barrels. The split between barrels is to distribute weight and to ensure that if a yak were to run of into the distance, the damage would be minimal.
I am in the progress of finalising my plan for camps and will publish this after a day or two's more tweaking at ABC

One - 15kg
12 cokes
1 Terra Nova Gemini tent – Camp III
6 packets of mountain food – freeze dried
2 rolls toilet paper
1 Mountain Hardwear Ghost sleeping bag – Camp II & III
1 2lt orange juice
5 gas canisters

Two – 15kg
12 cokes
1 Terra Nova Gemini tent – Camp II
10 packets of mountain food – freeze dried
2 rolls toilet paper
1 Mountain Hardwear Ghost sleeping bag – Camp I
1 2lt orange juice
3 gas canisters

Three – 15kg
1 Terra Nova Super Quasar tent – Camp I
15 packets of mountain food – freeze dried
1 bottle carbohydrate powder
1 bottle recovery powder
2 large gas canisters
1 packet energy gels
1 packet energy bars
1 high altitude Mountain Hardwear suit

Four – 17kg
1 Terra Nova Super Quasar tent – Storage (Depot)Camp
15 packets of mountain food – freeze dried
1 spade
1 packets of snickers
4 gas canisters
2 packets of Tang
4 packets dried fruit/nuts

Five – 15kg
1 2lt orange juice
2 tins of fruit
1 knife
3 books
1 medicine bag
1 packets of lighters
2 Jetboil stoves (Camps II & III)
1 Mountain Hardwear high altitude jacket
1 packet of zip lock bags

Six - 14kg
Millet high altitude boots
1 MSR stove (Camp I)
1 climbing harness
1 stake
1 pair crampons
2 water bottles
2 packets of Pringles
Large packet of Tea/Coffee, B/F bars
2 rolls toilet paper
1 mug
1 honey

Mountain kit bag - 10kg
Chinese blanket
Prayer flags & Incense
Thin rope
Pair ice climbing ice-tools
Thermarest mat

Bamboo stakes – 3kg
(for staking tent in snow)

Personal Backpack – 15kg
ABC Rab Sleeping bag
2 Exped mats
CTU electronic communication & navigation gear
Outer gear
2 water bottles
Ice Axe
Gloves
Torch
Satellite phone

So in total, approximately 130kg's to get me 3km vertical!
Anybody think of anything I have missed?

Day 2 – Base Camp

Did not sleep very well last night. Was also pretty cold at -2 degrees outside. Am trying not to take any Diamox but if lack of sleep (and crazy dreams) persists will have to. Did take a Paracetamol. Calm clear day with more snow on Shishapangma. This clears during the hot day and exposes its rocky mass. Rest and drink all day. Little headache at lunch time - oh the joys of high altitude. This routine will carry on over the next couple of weeks as my body slowly adjusts to the height gain and lack of oxygen. USA couple arrive today, so at least the group is in sync. The yaks are arriving on Saturday so we will head up to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at 5,600m them. Its about an 18km walk.

Thanks very much to Simon, Laszlo & Dries for their contributions to the Rainbow Trust

ShishaPangma Base Camp

Well it has been some time since my last update! The good news is that we have arrived safely at "Chinese Base Camp". I will do a full update tomorrow once a little more settled
All the best
Hoseman
...via CTU

Offering prayers at road high point - Shisha in background (a little to the right)

Day One - Base Camp

Leave at 9:00 exactly! Fantastic drive on new road and wonderful weather. This is what its all about – getting close to them hills. It seems as though it has been ages since I left London. Shishapangma peaks out above some low lying hills. 3rd time lucky! Stop at the high point (pass) on the route. Throw some prayers (printed squares of coloured paper) into the wind. Last section of road still dirt and soon we stop at our “home” for the next couple of days. Truck with barrels had arrived the day before so kitchen & dining tents already erected. We assist the Sherpas by pitching our own base camp tents. Great to be here, even though the climb from 3,750m to approximately 5,000m is quite a jump and knocks one flat again. Will take it very easy until the body gets used to the lack of oxygen. Soup, tea, dinner & bed.

Shisha's two summits just peaking out back right

View of Shisha from 5,000m road pass

Group shot including Monk

Major joining in, Shisha behind

Entering the Tibetan plains

Tibetan house

Typical Hoseman

Shisha across the plains

Zoomed view of Shishapangma from BC at 5,000m
Sharp ridge is North ridge leading from Camp III to Central summit

View from BC tent

One more sleep

Imodium seems to be working thank goodness! Dragged up the new road for 7km by the Major again. Still feeling flat but grateful that he has got me out! Will be leaving Nyalam tomorrow morning!!!!!!!!!!!!

Saw our friend again - King Ratter, fitting as I'm reading King Rat

Major at Bridge point

Imodium

Stomach not the greatest so have to resort to some Imodium plus. Major entices me up for a walk past some hydro-electric plants. Find some snow on a ridge so practice my alpine “walks”. Not the most energised day but at least got out. Weather changes in afternoon – cooler and a little wind and snow. Jamie's (of Project Himalaya) team arrive in Nyalam on their way to Everest base camp. Three mountains are “serviced” via this route – Everest, Cho Oyu & Shishapangma. Funny having to drag yourself through these dumps (and associated risks of getting sick) just to get to Base Camp and the mountain. These are the times when one needs to think of the end goal and accept that its all just part of the process. It will probably change over time as can be seen already by the new road and improved hotel. Major was surprised that we would be driving to base camp in a bus!

View own to Nyalam from other side

The route Major went up- Alp d Heuz

Chinese blankets

Early start, with no complaints and due to the new road arrive in Nyalam for breakfast. Tashi has new hotel which considering the past “rooms” we have stayed in is 5 star. Good walk up subsidiary hill (4,100m) in afternoon. Buy some very soft and comfortable Chinese blankets for ABC

View down to Nyalam

Tashi's new hotel with masses of prayer flags

Looks whos hiding...

Kathmandu to Zangmu

There are 4 groups getting ABC support from Asian Trekking
- German (DAV Summit) 6 members with 1 Sherpa
- Japanese 1 lady member with 2 Sherpa's
- USA one couple no Sherpa's
and me
The USA couple are coming in via Lhasa so we will see them at Base Camp (BC)

The border crossing is always a little disorganised and unpredictable, so I was not surprised to be pulled over to one side due to the quantity of electrical gear that I was carrying. My Garmin GPS drew quite a bit of attention and at one stage it looked as though they would not let it through. Not the greatest as I am climbing on my own and would be relying on it in poor weather conditions. After a significant amount of discussion and some assistance from the CTMA border liaison man (who I remembered from the previous two entries) it was released back to me. Thew!
Although the road has improved significantly (and a better “restaurant”) there are still no photos of dear Zangmu – its still a dump!

The men in my life

So what keeps me going?
I've recently been asking a couple of people “who has provided inspiration in your life?” and it seems a common answer is “my parents”, and no one else is then mentioned...
I don't think I have been “inspired” (I'm talking about "extreme"inspiration if there is such a thing) by my parents. but don't get me wrong and let me explain.
My parents Wendy & Ray, have both been very successful and are both a very important part of my life - we are a strong triangle - as I like to put it. They have also provided me with all the opportunities early on to develop and take advantage in any avenue I wanted to.

I think though I have got my inspiration (and therefore commitment and determination) from going out and finding people from whom I can gain strength through either their endeavours or teachings.
I think success is all about achieving a paradigm shift. As an example, if you have already done a 200km cycle race with 5,000m of ascent, then a 109km race with 1,500m of ascent is much easier and importantly more possible from a mental point of view. If one can get ones mind in the correct “place”, ones body can achieve a significant amount more. Therefore I utilise other peoples strength from their endeavours and aim to achieve far more than I initially thought I (or others) could do. When the going gets tough (even in the training phase), I often think of the hardships others have endured and my “pain” becomes insignificant (due to its relativeness). It's very important though to plan, organise and physically train hard otherwise no amount of mind power will work. Therefore think what is needed to ahieve your paradigm shift!

Sir Ran Fiennes – it's actually all his fault that I'm here -  reading his autobiography Living Dangerously in the Lake District many moons ago was the catalyst for my climbing – somehow from reading his exploits I decided to go to the mountains for my exploring/adventure (by the way the The Feather Men is also a great read – especially the twist at the end!)

Lance Armstrong – Livestrong!, need I say more – my main man who keeps me cycling (nowhere) on my tacx) for hours on end

Another Sir – Ernest Shackleton, the big impact statement - "A man must shape himself to a new mark directly the old goes to ground." - imagine thinking that after your ship has just been crushed by ice and has sank and you are in the middle of nowhere!

Lance Mackey- 5 time winner of the Iditarod (ps - this is on my radar!) - a race of over a thousand miles across Alaska (with 16 dogs). Another Lance and another cancer survivor (albeit a little controversial) but his ability to hang in there in the toughest conditions will be something I will take with me to Shishapangma.

Some others,but more about them later
Tom Hopkins
Stephen R. Covey
Robert Toru Kiyosaki

So with all of this, reaching the summit of Shishapangma should be easy! Only time will tell...