Along the trail

Trek Day 02 - Benkar (2,630m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)

This was likely to be a challenging day as we all live below 150m. Climbing 800m when one is already at 2,600m was going to be hard work. How would Wendy and Ray do? Sonal had been gyming and hiking around Stanmore but would Mum & Dad's hikes in Sellendam be sufficient to get them up the Namche hill? Luckily there are a couple distractions before the long climb at the end i.e. the entrance to Sagarmartha National Park and five exiting suspension bridges. Well four exhausting hours after departure Sonal and Ray arrived at Namche Bazaar - a superb effort!

I was following Mum who was hand in hand with Nima. The reason for following was that I was bringing CTU up the valley with me, and was suffering under the load due to the lack of training caused by my broken arm back in January. Wendy was doing a sterling job, one step at a time and an hour later arrived to meet Sonal and Ray in Namche. The killer news was that our lodge was at the top of Namche another 150m higher....

Trekking scenes - lower valley

Trek Day 01 - Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m) to Bengkar (2,630m)

Early 5:00am start from Thamel to drive to Kathmandu domestic air terminal as we were booked on one of the first flights out. But as with anything in Nepal other forces often influence ones plans.

There was a low slightly smoggy cloud over the valley hence likely that our flights would be delayed. The airport was a buzz of exited travellers all looking forward to leaving the smoky noisy hectic pace of Thamel, the tourist area. And yes an announcement that the flights would now depart around 8:30am. We all nestled down and sat people watching.

I had been very fortunate to have been able to organise that Nima would join us as our trekking Sherpa. I had met him back in 2007 one my second attempt at Shishapangma. He was one of the Sherpas supporting Jamie's (Project Himalaya) commercial expedition. Unfortunately I was stopped by bad weather and only got to camp I at 6,500m.

Just after we had organised a hot cup of coffee, there was a rushed announcement that our flight was boarding! Typical, but I was actually very relieved as it is always touch and go whether one gets out to Lukla airport on ones first attempt.

Soon we were all boarded and charging down the runway through the mist. Obviously it had been the Lukla side which had delayed us. They don't fly when there are clouds as "there are mountains" in them...

It was really clear and we had uninterrupted views of the Himalayan range. Soon we were changing course and diving down with mountains very near on either side of us. It is one of the most exiting and sometime nerve wracking landings in the world. With a loud bump we "landed" and were hurtled towards the stone wall at the end of the short runway. The reason for the wall is that the runway is actually carved into the side of a mountain. The loud noise of the air brakes thankfully slowed us and we veered right into the small taxi area. They perform remarkably fast turnaround times and we were ushered of with whistles blowing to collect our baggage. Relative peace and quiet AND lovely clean fresh mountain air, what a change from Kathmandu. Within minutes the next flight arrived and it was noisy pandemonium again.

Nima was able to organise a porter for us who lived in the same village and soon after a little admin our merry band took of down the streets of Lukla.

This consisted of Wendy & Ray (Mum & Dad) and Sonal Amin a friend of ours from London. Claire unfortunately was unable to join us. Her recent appointment of COO of Garrard Webster required her full time attention and even though it meant missing the trip, she was thoroughly enjoying the challenges.


I'll let a couple of photos describe the rest of the 6 hour trek to Bengkar...

In and around Kathmandu

Thanks Muds!

Well just completed a year at Hermes with a great crowd of Muds! Thanks guys and girls I really enjoyed working with you all!


Now onto other quests - that being going back to Shishapangma. This will be my third attempt at getting to the 8,013m summit. It's the lowest of the fourteen eight-thousanders in the world and located entirely in Tibet. In both 2006 and 2007 I was stopped by bad weather. Both of those attempts were during the Post Indian monsoon period of September/October. This year I'm trying in the Pre monsoon.
Image from www.adventureweather.com


Now Shishapangma is one of the easiest eight-thousanders according to Wikipedia. We'll perhaps for someone like Reinhold Messner, but for a normal Mud like me it still presents quite a challenge. There is a double marathon in South Africa between Durban and Pietermaritzburg - 89km, which I completed in 1985,1987 & 1989 (almost got cancelled this year due to the IPL!) But the point about it is that it's almost impossible to complete without having run it before. This happened to me in 2007 on Shisha - I was much better prepared, especially mentally. Now yes I've had a little hick up with my not so humorous Humerus, so I'm not as prepared as I would like to be but I still have the benefit of being on the mountain twice before!


So the plan is to spend 3 to 4 weeks acclimatising in Nepal in the valleys and passes West of Mount Everest. Unfortunately Claire has been flat out at work so will not be able to make the trek, but Wendy & Ray (Mum & Dad), Major Hume and family and Sonal will be coming along!


As some of you know I do have a fair amount of communication gear (CTU style!) with me so hopefully will be able to update this blog as we go along.


If you are interested in getting email triggers please drop me a line Email me!


Cheers
Mark


PS the previous attempts and some other "stuff" are also all in this blog - just browse through the archive menu

The Mountaineer

The Summit is the place to be

To contemplate Philosophy;

Relieve the Mind’s Turgidity;

Enrich the Spirit’s lethargy;

Refresh the Physique actively;

Indulge the Sense: Touch and See

Explore the Earth’s Anatomy

Gentle, softly sensuously –

Reaching upwards, climbing free

From the Tibia to the Knee

Across the Thigh of Ecstasy

On a high, to Apogee!

By Raymond E Hose

Wendy & Ray on a training walk in preparation for Nepal, well Mum really, Dad took photo

Healed clinically & radiologically, 37 days 17 hours 12 mins after Edale...

So I'm back, no operation required due to good bone growth. Now the fun starts with the physiotherapy guys on getting my ROM (Range of movement) back - some areas sitting at only 20 degrees.

Very very chuffed though!

Anyone need an engine on the back of their tandem for the Cape Argus?

He never lost a man

On Christmas Eve 1968, Frank Borman, Jim Lovell and Bill Anders took their Apollo 8 spacecraft around the back of the Moon and fired its SPS engine to, for the first time, orbit the Moon. This was a bold mission. The LM wasn’t ready, so couldn’t be tested in Earth orbit, as was planned. Mission planners decided (under some pressure from Soviet advances) to send the CSM to the Moon to test navigation and communications and to demonstrate manouvers such as trans-lunar and trans-earth injection.

It was on this mission that Jim Lovell, later Commander of Apollo 13, named ‘Mount Marilyn’ in honour of his wife. Lovell was fated to pass the Moon twice, but never to land. His leadership of Apollo 13 is regarded as similar to the leadership Ernest Shackleton offered on the Endurance expedition in 1914-1916. He never lost a man.

It was on this mission that people first saw ‘Earth rise’. Reading the astronauts’ words (mission elapsed time 075:47:30) as they come over the lunar horizon to see the Earth rising gives some idea of the excitement they felt. Imagine. The photographs they took are now iconic and perhaps, as much as anything, kick-started the environmental movement.

Apollo 8 is also famed for a moving reading from Genesis the astronauts made as they entered Lunar sunrise.


“086:06:40 Anders: We are now approaching lunar sunrise, and for all the people back on Earth, the crew of Apollo 8 has a message that we would like to send to you.

In the beginning, God created the Heaven and the Earth.
And the Earth was without form and void, and darkness was upon the face of the deep.
And the spirit of God moved upon the face of the waters, and God said, “Let there be light.”
And there was light. And God saw the light, that it was good, and God divided the light from the darkness.

086:07:29 Lovell: And God called the light Day, and the darkness he called Night.
And the evening and the morning were the first day. And God said, “Let there be a firmament in the midst of the waters. And let it divide the waters from the waters.” And God made the firmament and divided the waters which were under the firmament from the waters which were above the firmament. And it was so. And God called the firmament Heaven. And the evening and the morning were the second day.

086:08:07 Borman: And God said, “Let the waters under the Heavens be gathered together into one place. And let the dry land appear.” And it was so. And God called the dry land Earth. And the gathering together of the waters called he seas. And God saw that it was good.

And from the crew of Apollo 8, we close with good night, good luck, a Merry Christmas and God bless all of you - all of you on the good Earth.”

The hammer and feather

The hammer and feather were dropped by Dave Scott near the end of Apollo 15's last Moonwalk. In a demonstration, he showed that, with no atmosphere and air resistance, the hammer and feather fell at the same speed and hit the ground at the same time "proving that Mr Galileo was correct in his findings". The hammer and feather remain on the Moon.

Sir Edmund Hillary, conquerer of Everest - by David Roberts

Isn't this just a fantastically strong photo of Sir Ed!
It was taken by David Roberts in New Zealand

Are you a beacon of inspiration to others?

The Shackleton Foundation from The Shackleton Foundation on Vimeo.

21 days - countdown to Cape Argus cycle tour

So yes I'm a nutter, but C'est La Vie!

It's the Cape Argus Cycle Tour on the 8th of March - so far 40,017 entries!

Could I still do it?

It will have been 7 weeks since the accident?

What about on a tandem?

Well am taking it one week at a time, but pragmatically am thinking a little bit further down the road...

Nepal trek (41 days countdown) with Wendy and Ray and maybe, yes just maybe there is still a chance to climb Shishapangma! (65 days countdown)

Shisha had been my main objective this year - was going to change seasons and try in April/May rather than September/October when I did the last two attempts.

Will keep you posted as t0 my thoughts - there is also still a lot of speculation as to whether the Chinese are going to issue permits for Tibet!

Note that I will need to be off the mountain before the monsoon ariives - see the section on monsoons on wiki

1st Physio session

Met John & Jamie at the St Mary's physiotherapy gym. Was only a detailed consultation at this stage as still waiting for more stability (bone growth) in the Humerus. But now have a set of daily exercises to promote movement in the arm and shoulder.

It’s very clear that I will need to focus in detail on the specific exercises as one naturally uses other muscles to "cover" for the ones that are not performing - this could lead to bad habits!

Positive news - bone growth

Well there is definitely signs of bone growth on the x-rays. The 17 degree bend has also almost gone. So that’s really good news!

Muscle atrophy over the shoulder is marked though, so went for an ultra sound scan to check attachment of tendons to the bone - again no bad news as all looks intact!

Have scheduled next consult with Mr Adam Rumian on Monday 23rd February.

"A man must shape himself to a new mark directly the old one goes to ground"

Quote from Sir Ernest Shackleton after the loss of the Endurance on 27 October 1915

So we think we are having a difficult time - credit crunch etc?

Am I really in such bad shape - broken humerus?

hmmmmmm....

A bit more detail...

A real inspiration while recuperating

This video really inspired me today.

I'm definitely going back to Shisha.

It's a real shame it might not be this year.

But I'm definitely going back to see the view from the top.

I hope you enjoy this as much as I did!

Edale - Not so Humerus! @ 19:21:04 Position: N53 22.002 W1 50.302

Quote from Claire's email
"Mr Hose went off to the Peak District Friday evening with Dave & Dan... They set off and had a glorious walk in the moonlight for about 28 mins (precision data taken from GPS) and then Mr Hose slipped and landed on his arm on a protruding rock under the weight of his massively heavy pack (actually only 27kg)...
The result is an arm with multiple fractures... Extending up to the humerus to the humeral head ( where shoulder & arm meet)...
Trust Hose to do it well!

View in Google Earth - actual track

Back from Cuba, let the fun (Training) begin

2008 - A fabulous year of cycling

Objective to cycle over 8,000m in height gained - 24,872m done!

There's no ride quite like the Mt. Shasta Summit Century. Challenging climbs. Breathtaking views. Lightly trafficked, rural roads. And a cloverleaf route that encourages you to test yourself -- you're never more than a downhill away from home.
Held in the stunning alpine environment surrounding 14,162' Mount Shasta, the Mount Shasta Summit Century is an endless parade of breathtaking views – and a challenging set of climbs. A cloverleaf route allows you to really challenge yourself; if you can't climb another foot, you simply turn around -- the finish is only a downhill away. Our 135 mile Super Century features 16,500' of climbing. It's tougher than the Death Ride – but a lot prettier, and a better first ride for those who are new to hilly, mega-century rides.


This classic sportive is a magnificent challenge for experienced and motivated cyclists. For the last three years your praise and feedback has allowed us to raise the bar on the course design standards – a balance between acknowledged challenging climbs, fast time-trial type sections, enduring rolling Wolds and excellent food and water stations. This year we you have set the pinnacle standard – no route changes to the course!
Leave Highclere Castle and head for one of the toughest combination climbs over Walbury Hill and Faccombe Hill to connect with the Bourne and Test Valley runs to Stockbridge. Enjoy the rolling Wolds that follow to the first main Control at Sparsholt, Nr Winchester (42mile/68km).
The second stage is all about riding the South Downs. After a steady section to Twyford Down the South Downs challenge begins and includes Old Winchester Hill and Harting Hill. Recover on the rolling roads to the second main Control at Owens Cycles Steep, Nr Petersfield (42mile/67km).
The third stage begins with an aggressive climb over Stoner Hill and continues to Medstead. Recover as you ride the Candovers. At 100+miles gear up for the long drag climb to Hannington - it's a real tester! Continue over White Hill and Watership Down and re-enter Highclere Castle grounds for that grand finale finish (42mile/67km).




The Tour of the Black Mountains, always scenic and at times spectacular, the 85 mile short and 115 mile long courses visited both the Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons.  The routes took in some punishing climbs, including the so called ‘hill with no name’ and the sting-in-the-tail ascent out of  Llangynidr. The latter was encountered at the 100 mile point, just as many wilting riders were simply hoping to grind their way home without further pain.

The Dragon Ride cyclosportive is a circular, 125 or 185km non competitive road cycle challenge ride over the beautiful hills and valleys of South Wales. With around 3000m of climbing, the route takes in the classic Milk Race/Tour of Britain climbs of the Bwlch, Rhigos and Brecon Beacons mountain roads. The Dragon Ride was one of the first annual cyclosportives to be held in the UK and the first to gain a place on the UCI calendar. The ride is based at Pencoed, just outside Cardiff and has excellent road, rail and international air links. 2009 will be the sixth occasion this event has been held. The route takes riders east through Llantrisant Forest (The Smilog), Coedely and Gilfach Goch. This new loop includes three short sharp climbs before we rejoin the route used last year in Blackmill. This section is followed by the first major climb of the day The Bwlch, 20 miles from the start. The Bwlch Mountain road is once again climbed twice, the second time on the return leg from the Afan Valley (the longest ascent of this mountain road). The climb over Llangeinor Mountain with it's tricky descent will be the final hill of the day on the run back to the finish.

L’Étape du Tour (French for ’stage of the Tour’) is an organised mass participation cyclosportive event that allows amateur cyclists to race over the same route as a Tour de France stage. First held in 1993, and organised by the Amaury Sport Organisation, ASO (in conjunction with Vélo Magazine), it takes place each July, normally on a Tour rest day.

L’Etape du Tour is normally held over mountain roads in either the Pyrenees or French Alps, up climbs such as the Col du Galibier, Col d’Aubisque, Mont Ventoux or the Col du Tourmalet.

The Cape Argus Pic’n‘Pay is quite simply the BIGGEST Cyclo Sportive in the world.

South Africa’s Cape Argus Pick ‘n Pay Cycle Tour, is, quite simply, the world’s largest individually timed cycle race – and the first event outside Europe to be included in the International Cycling Union’s Golden Bike Series – with over 35 000 cyclists tackling a 109km route around Cape Town that is as spectacular as it is gruelling.

RACE	KM	Meters Climbed	TIME	AVG SPEED km/h
Mt Shasta Summit	217km	5,029m	10:13	21.2
Highclere Castle	200km	3,040m	08:30	25.5
Tour of the Black Mountains	182km	3,793m	08:04	22.6
Dragon Ride Wales	180km	3,000m	06:38	27.1
L'Étape du Tour Mondovélo	169km	3,000m	07:45	21.8
White Horse Challenge	150km	1,400m	05:29	27.4
Etape Caledonia	130km	1,949m	04:09	31.3
Cape Argus	109km	1,080m	05:23	20.25
Mayhem Classic Sportive	100Km	1,721m	04:34	21.9
Autmn Epic - DNF	56km	860m	02:12	25.8
TOTAL	1,493km	24,872m	62:45	24.5

The Intrepid 5

Part One

Part Two

End of the road

Leaving base camp and back in Kathmandu

On the way to KTM

Extra Shots

Raymond E - Distillation of views

As we near the end of this chapter of the blog, ‘Mumsie’ would like to enter the following quote:
“The charm of mountain-climbing lies not in the climbing in success, nor in failure, but in the great range of emotions provoked through these physical experiences.” [FS Smythe]

As the Scrappy Scribe, I too would like to append some thoughts of the subject. Hoseman/Mark has used this quote from Mallory (which I heartily endorse) in the introduction to his blog site:
“What we get from this adventure is just sheer joy. And joy is, after all, the end of life. We do not live to eat and make money. We eat and make money to be able to enjoy life. That is what life means and what life is for.”

Mallory is of course better known for his more famous other quote. When asked at a lecture why he climbed Everest, he replied, “Because it is there.”
In his book Four Against Everest, Woodrow Wilson Sayre says: “Many people have been tremendously impressed with this answer. I think it is a tribute to their vivid imaginations. For, as it stands, it really doesn’t say anything. It is too ambiguous.” Sayre then attempts to interpret what Mallory might have meant, by suggesting his answer to mean, “because it is a challenge.” But the question remains: why is it a challenge? Why does it challenge that particular breed of men called mountaineers, whereas the vast majority couldn’t care less?
At first Sayre was puzzled why the question couldn’t just be answered “I climb mountains because I like to” in the same way someone else would say, “I play tennis because I want to”. But then he felt the questioner was really asking why a mountaineer would choose to do so when faced with all the obvious and major negatives such as: “This mountain climbing business is dangerous. It costs money. It is hard exhausting work. You have to disrupt the family to do it, etc etc”.
Being a mountaineer himself, Sayre decided the following reasons suited him. First on his list (but not necessarily first in importance) Sayre rated Beauty. “If a person would cross the ocean just to look at the beauty of a cathedral, why would he not do as much or more to see these magnificent mountains?” Next, echoing Smythe, are the special Emotions which the high and wild peaks provoke. “I feel a special happiness to be alone in the high, silent places of the world tucked close under the sky. Such things are worth a little insecurity and sacrifice.” Paradoxically, mountains also provide both Companionship and Solitude. The deepest friendships spring from sharing failure as well as success, danger as well as safety. The friendships thus established are lasting and irreplaceable. As far as solitude is concerned, Sayre holds: “A man must refill the inner springs of his being in solitude and reflection – there is a deep inner need for this. Without this refilling, life becomes increasingly hurried, it becomes increasingly mechanical and it becomes increasingly insensitive. People are wonderful, but an infinite number of them are not.”
I might venture here to include the Body Physical. Who cannot fail to notice the satisfaction, even pride, as Hoseman describes how his subsequent efforts up and down the slopes at high altitude and in onerous conditions were completed in less time and with less effort – a real show of strength and fitness and rewarding acclimatisation.
Sayre concludes: “Contemplating all the values achieved by climbing mountains, I am tempted yet again to try the impossible and summarise it all in a single sentence. Men climb mountains because they are not satisfied to exist, they want to live – climbing the heights is one way.”
This largely accords with Eric Shipton who says:
“He is lucky who, in the full tide of life, has experienced a measure of the active environment that he most desires. In these days of upheaval and violent change, when the basic values of today are the vain and shattered dreams of tomorrow, there is much to be said for the philosophy which aims at living a full life while the opportunity offers. There are few treasures of more lasting worth than the experience of a way of life that is, in itself, wholly satisfying. Such, after all, are the only possessions of which no fate, no cosmic catastrophe can deprive us; nothing can alter the fact if for one moment in eternity we have really lived.”
So, in conclusion, I say “Go for it!” My only personal bone of contention is that I believe such experiences do not necessarily emanate ONLY from sources on such a grand and massive scale. We don’t always HAVE to find an Everest to experience adventure and life - one can still enjoy Sayre’s list of values as much at 1000m as at 8000m.

CALL FROM ANOTHER LOCAL READER

1006 SUNDAY
Had an interesting phone call from Betty Davis, a leading and long standing member of the Mountain Club of South Africa, who saw Sisha Pangma, the only 8000 m peak wholly within Tibet, while on a trip to Everest Base Camp with Kate McCullum in 2003.
Betty said she had been most interested in that so many of her adventures had been replicated in Hoseman’s current adventure. She wished him well and a safe return.

LOCAL INTEREST BY BLOG READER

While many local folk have followed the blog with interest, not many have put their reactions onto paper. This is an email received on 2 October:

Hi Ray,
Thank you for letting me share in Mark’s adventures. I find it absolutely fascinating following the paths of such intrepid,daring folk and I shall read the whole blog and find the places mentioned in my atlas and go on a daily trip in to the site to find out the latest news.
Good Luck to him in his quest to reach the summit this time and to return home safely and tell his tale.Love, Chippy

LAST FEW DAYS - CLEARING UP

1004 THUR: Brief call to Mumsie (while I was out) to say: “Just got back after retrieving camp equipment. End of attempt. Weather too bad. Going back now.”

1005 FRI: “I am exhausted – after all that deep snow!” But, Gromit is FURIOUS! The position here is that everyone is coming down the mountain now. No one is summiting anywhere. Some groups have already left.
At the same time, although the weather has really been horrible, the experience has been fantastic. I Feel comfortable with myself – highest point reached was Camp 1 (6440m). Now, the yaks are arriving in three days time. We'll spend some time clearing the camp and then leave Base Camp day after tomorrow (SUN 7?)
The Jeep is booked and in three days time will go to Kathmandu. (MON 8?) which means I will have to spend one night in border town Xiang Mu.
Flight back is also booked and will depart Kathmandu on THUR 11. While in Kathmandu will add more pictures to blog.
From now on, Claire will determine where to go and how high to climb. Have heard Peru and Ecuador offer good climbing opportunities (!!!) – better day trips available.
Have put some stuff on blog in form of emails but they are in the wrong order. Please go into blog and put them in correct order. Go to Edit\Posting Options. Flattering to learn of Chippy’s email. Stick it on.

Day 28 - 4th October - Retreat - "that's all folks"

Well after the cramped cold windy night, the morning was not much better.
After a large amount of radio talk I made the decision to go down. The team
at camp 2.5 were not having much fun, but would still see if they could make
a summit attempt. I could not see any "window" so decided that after all
this time, I will call it a day.

I'll "muse"? more about this later and add some photos from the trip, but
for now will say that I'm back at ABC (after pulling all I could manage down
from the hill and through the Penitentes), safe and sound.

Quick Update - 5th October
Shisha is covered with cloud - all teams retreating

Day 27 - 3rd October - Summit Push

Weather still clear - no clouds
A fairly uncertain mindset last night - perhaps a little negative - unlike
the usual nervous tension I get - pacing around etc...
But
Fully motivated this morning, got latest weather report (no major changes)
and set of for Depot camp at 9:13. Amazing how one aclimatises - been here
for a while and now time to depot camp only 1h36mins (first trip up
2h50mins).
Change into Millet high boots at depot, pack more gas, high sleeping bag,
some food (pasta left over from last night's dinner) thermarest (Major
Hume's) etc.
Penitentes trail fine, and by now am getting very familiar with all of its
nuances - not such a hurdle any more - 28mins compared to first trip of 1h
29mins - both with loads.

One Sherpa ahead of me on the trail - therefore able to "track" his trail.
Previous trail had been wind blown, so need to look out carefully so that
one does not pop knee deep of the trail. Lower levels across the glacier are
fairly calm, but as I ascend wind does pick up.

Couple of skiers clearing the mountain dragging their loads, have to dodge
their loads (rolling tents) as they break up and scatter over the mountain.
Am a little concerned crossing the crevasses (slots) as they have been
covered up by snow - one of those things that one puts out of ones mind as
rescue is either very slow or unlikely.

As approach the crest of the climb wind again very prevalent. Have two
layers of wool gloves so fingers warmer than Friday 28th attempt. Eventually
reach hard icy crusty surface marking the top. Some more big slots to
negotiate - fingers crossed! Radio to Jamie's camp 1 which is visible a bit
higher up - Anne responds with an invite for hot milk tea! No crawling this
time, but head down into the driving wind/snow. Very happy with time -
2h35mins from Penitentes (first time 4h53mins) - So much more efficient and
again shows how amazing ones body is in adapting to the requirements of the
environment.

After a great cuppa hot Tea with Anne & Janet (who have been at camp 1
waiting for the weather window - and wind to drop), grab my gear I stored
last time, and push further to my Camp 1. Have not had any reports about it
since the last storm, so little apprehensive about what I'll find - it's
pretty critical as has all the rest of my gear in it!
But good old Terra Nova, there she is hanging on, a little snowed in, but as
strong as a brick house. Scramble in, and great to be out of the wind, even
though now still a little noisy.

Was a little concerned that the wind has so strong on the way up - ABC was
calm. Although not a completely debilitating, the wind does undermine one
both physically and mentally. Now it's a matter of hearing the next
forecast, brewing up some water and eating (something I don't do - yes Oje
got your message, and therefore will try!)

After a little organizing, as although the Terra Nova is a good size I have
a fair amount in it, I got a big surprise! I was getting snow from outside
and saw a climber approaching my tent. The trail from Jamie's camp to Camp 2
goes right past, but is was much too late to be going there. It was Lena,
who had a week ago stashed some gear in my tent. As it was late and she was
already really cold (her other warmer gear was in another tent) I said she
had better get in and stay. I had already been refused twice some shelter.
Anyway it was a really squashed, windy and cold night - this other than the
much better European food she pulled out of her bag - lovely meats and
cheeses.

The weather report was not looking good as the winds were looking as though
they would be increasing. Its amazing how one chases these weather windows,
and although we were trying, it was avoiding us. My views of sitting again
at camp 1 and waiting were not that favourable. I would wait until the
mornings forecast

Day 26 - 2nd October - Summit Plan

So considering that I have now been up the hill a few times, have
established Camp I at 6,400m and we have a small favourable weather window,
I have decided to go back up for a summit push. The weather in the region
has certainly not been ideal and the chances of success are small. But
because of all the time and effort invested it's worth an attempt.
For my unsupported attempt I do need to have a clear (calm) weather window.
Secondly I need to have a trail before me. Its one thing carrying all ones
own gear when there is a firm trail, but this become impossible in knee deep
conditions. Shisha has plenty of this around and only a very thin trail in
some places (where previous climbers have been).
So the plan is as follows:

Date Jamie's team Mark
Tuesday 2nd Camp 1.6 ABC
Wednesday 3rd Camp 2.5/3 Camp 1
Thursday 4th Summit Camp 2
Friday 5th Retreat Camp 2.5/3
Saturday 6th Summit

Notes:
Camp 1.6 is early on in a valley - reason is that the first time there, one
has climbed +/- 400m up a steep slope and going further up the valley seems
an arduous task.

Camp 2.5 is just below an "interesting" slope up to camp 3. It can get
loaded with snow and may avalanche - Three clients and 2 Sherpa's set this
camp up as a pre summit camp, implying a long hard summit push. Camp 3 is on
a col (and visible from ABC) and in current conditions will be unbearably
windy.

Day 25 - Weather chat - 1st October

Well there has been an awful amount of discussion regarding the weather.
Weather reports come in via email and the internet - unfortunately they do
not always agree. Jamie uses forecasts from West Coast Weather in Washington
USA and I must say these are very comprehensive. Two areas are focused on -
Precipitation (snow) and Wind. Both of these factors are critical to our
success. Imagine trying to predict these for the future for different
heights (6000m, 6500m etc etc)

Here is an example of the type of information we receive:

Summary:
A weak upper level low is dropping down from the north and will bring an
increase in winds and some more clouds over the next several days. However,
this is not a big storm. The next weather issue is one of the forecast
models wants to bring in some precipitation of up to 1 inch (2.54 cm) on
Saturday and or Sunday and we will need to monitor this.

Monsoon.
The monsoon continues to retreat.

Jet Stream.
The jet stream is close K2 region over the next 7 days with just some minor
daily changes. It basically meanders back and forth near the K 2 region with
winds increasing at times to 140 knots (259 km) at the 39,000 foot level
(11,818 meters) near K2.

Precipitation and Clouds.
With a generally southerly flow still clouds moving in and out of the
region. Many of the models have clouds toping out at about 20,000 (6060
meters) but not sure about that. Also most models have no precipitation over
the next 7 days except one puts moderate precipitation for both Saturday and
Sunday.
Amounts for precipitation in water equivalent at 20,000 (6060 meters) there
will less precipitation as one moves towards the summit

Thursday to Friday
Up to .30 inches (up to 0.76 cm) each day. Although current satellite is
showing some clouds moving in so that number for Thursday might be low
Clouds moving in and out of the region.

Saturday to Sunday
Up to .30 inches (up to 0.76 cm) each day. However one model puts up to 1
inch (2.54 cm) for one of the days.
Clouds moving in and out of the region.

Monday to Wednesday
Up to .30 inches (up to 0.76 cm) each day.
Just a few clouds moving in and out of the region.

Wind forecast.
Thursday to Friday
Summit Average 24 to 34 knots (44 km to 63 km) Winds from the west to
southwest.
23,000 (6969 meters) Average 20 to 30 knots (27 to 56 km) from west to
southwest
19,000 (5757 meters) 10 to 20 knots (18.5 km to 37 km) Winds from west to
the southwest
** If the moderate precipitation occurs then we can expect stronger average
wind of up to 42 knots (78 km)

Summit Temperature
-20 C (-4 F)

This forecast is based on computer generated weather data generated from
government agencies that West Coast Weather, LLC. dab Washington Online
Weather deems reliable. However, the weather can change quickly and
unforeseeably, and there are many factors which you should consider in
deciding whether to proceed with an outing, including the visible weather at
the trailhead, the strength and experience of the party, snow and avalanche
conditions, route conditions, etc. You are the final decision maker whether
to proceed. West Coast Weather, LLC dba Washington Online Weather cannot be
held liable for loss or injury arising from your decision to proceed, and
expressly disclaims all liability related thereto.

For further information please contact West Coast Weather, LLC, Redmond,
Washington USA

Finally thanks to the guys at West Coast Weather, LLC for the great
information supplied during this expedition

WARNING: BEWARE THE WEATHER TRAP!

It is our considered but humble opinion that conditions are now perfect for the weather trap - whereby the weather opens sufficiently to entice frustrated, impatient and eager climbers up the mountain only to close again making descent difficult if not dangerous. We believe such a limited window should only be used to retrieve gear and equipment from the higher caches. Jamie has demonstrated great sagacity and perspicacity in his summing up the current situation (See his website report of 30 September). His caution should not only be heeded but deserves to be quoted in full here:

30 SEP - JAMIE’S SITUATION REPORT
WHAT IS WITH THE WEATHER? WE KNOW OUR CHANCES ARE NOT HIGH.

30 Sept - Mark coming down
The weather improved but if a team of Sherpas couldn't make Camp 2 then Mark wasn't going to try, so he is returning to ABC.

30 Sept - Decisions
After breakfast we had a healthy discussion about our possibilities. This season has been rather abnormal, the average precipitation for the month was reached before the month was even half over, I am guessing that we have had easily double, perhaps triple the normal amount of snow. Officially the monsoon usually leaves the region around the middle of September, even if some occasional moisture remains. This year, a tropical storm (not quite a full cyclone) rolled over in late September and, while it didn't hit us directly, it really brought real dumps of snow all the same, loading the mountain, so that climbing conditions are still terrible.

The future could be better but our weather forecasts from Michael Fagin are not particularly positive for the next week or so. While the weather should improve and the wind should drop a bit for a couple of days - and there should be less snow - there is still no summit window; the snow is too deep to get high. Then the winds will return and seem set to stay, strong winds but luckily not the jet stream. The shame of it is that the winds still haven't loosened the snow high on the mountain, see the photo below.

What should we do? We could trek around the region, there really are some beautiful spots (see the lakes that Clive, Walter, Hans and myself explored last year), or we could try to climb a smaller mountain close by. However, regardless of the chances of success most people want to focus on Shisha Pangma. So there really is only one way to work out how realistic that is, and that is to rub your nose in it, or push a trail up it.

Our plan is to do an acclimatization run up to Camp 1 and then see if conditions will improve, see if that elusive summit window will appear. Most of the team have headed up to Depot Camp to sleep the night there and tomorrow, with assistance from the Sherpas, will plug a trail (or perhaps find an existing one) up to Camp 1 and spend one, or perhaps two, nights up there. We can assess conditions from there.

The team sleeping at Depot Camp tonight is Eric, Jan, Anne, Tristan, Joe C, Joe F, Martin and Ursula. Tomorrow they will move to Camp 1, and Clive, Francis, Janet and Gordon will move up direct from ABC to Camp 1. Alan and perhaps myself will remain at ABC.

Other mountains
How are others faring on our semi-neighbour Cho Oyu, a mountain surprisingly similar to Shisha Pangma? So far as we know only the Singapore Women's team made it up - just before the storm hit (well done Jane!) and then got spanked on the way down. All the other teams are still waiting (or have bailed) and I am guessing it will take some daring trail breaking to open up the route. Perhaps it will take a little more time, and a hard push - just like ‘our’ mountain.

We also have friends on the south side of Shisha Pangma… I don't like their chances unless all this snow has avalanched as it fell and, regardless, the wind will still be horrible.

Ultimately I feel it will be a waiting game, or a game of dare. However very few teams have enough time just to wait and wait.